This guide gives you a practical planting calendar Australia you can use in any state or territory. Australia spans multiple climate zones, so there is no single universal date—only zone‑driven windows that you’ll fine‑tune with your own microclimate. Below you’ll find warm‑ vs cool‑season rules of thumb, zone frameworks, indicative crop windows, and state‑by‑state notes to get you planting confidently.
Know Your Zone First
Australia spans tropical, subtropical, temperate/Mediterranean, arid, and cool/alpine climates. Your broad zone sets the bounds, but microclimates shift timing by weeks. Balconies and courtyards warm fast; coastal breezes soften frost; hills and valleys trap cold air. If you’re unsure, ask your local nursery or community garden what they plant and when—that local knowledge is gold.
- Tropical (e.g., Darwin, far north QLD): warm to hot year‑round; wet/dry seasons dominate timing.
- Subtropical (e.g., Brisbane, coastal NSW north): mild winters; long warm season; summer heat/humidity can stress some crops.
- Temperate/Mediterranean (e.g., Sydney, Perth, Adelaide): distinct seasons; hot, dry summers and cool, wet winters in the south‑west.
- Cool temperate/alpine (e.g., Melbourne outskirts, Canberra, Hobart, highlands): frost risk; shorter warm season; spring/autumn prime for many crops.
- Arid/interior: big temperature swings; rely on water management, shade, and windbreaks; adjust with microclimate and timing.
Warm‑Season vs Cool‑Season Basics
Group crops by their temperature needs and your calendar becomes simple.
- Warm‑season (after frost, mild nights): tomatoes, capsicum, eggplant, beans, basil, cucumbers, zucchini, sweetcorn.
- Cool‑season (spring/autumn and mild winters): lettuce, spinach, brassicas (broccoli, kale), peas, carrots, beetroot, coriander.
How to Use This Planting Calendar Australia
Think in windows, not single dates. The planting calendar australia is a framework you’ll customise: start with your zone’s month ranges, compare with what neighbours plant, then nudge by your microclimate (balcony, courtyard, coastal, hillside). Keep notes; in one year you’ll have a personalised {primary_kw} that outperforms any generic chart.
Indicative Timing by Crop (by Zone)
Tomato
- Tropical/Subtropical: Apr–Aug (avoid peak wet/hot stress).
- Temperate: Sep–Nov for transplanting; start seeds 4–6 weeks earlier.
- Cool: Oct–Dec (earlier under cover).
Lettuce
- Tropics: Year‑round with shade; avoid the hottest/humid months for butterheads.
- Temperate: Autumn–spring; light shade over summer.
- Cool: Spring–autumn; choose heat‑tolerant types for shoulder seasons.
Beans
- Tropics/Subtropical: Mar–Aug.
- Temperate: Oct–Jan.
- Cool: Nov–Jan.
Carrots
- Tropics/Subtropical: Apr–Aug.
- Temperate: Autumn–spring.
- Cool: Spring–autumn.
Basil
- Tropics/Subtropical: Apr–Aug.
- Temperate: Oct–Jan.
- Cool: Nov–Jan.
Use these as starting points. Shift earlier with cloches and row covers; delay during heatwaves. Always check soil temperature for germination comfort.
State‑by‑State Quick Start (NSW/ACT, VIC, QLD, SA, WA, TAS, NT)
New South Wales / ACT (mostly temperate; frosts inland)
- Warm‑season starts: sow tomatoes/chillies indoors Aug–Sep; transplant Oct–Nov after last frost inland; coastal areas can go earlier.
- Cool‑season: lettuce, peas, brassicas from late winter through spring; autumn sowings for winter harvests.
- What to watch: spring cold snaps inland; summer heat on lettuce—use shade cloth and bolt‑resistant varieties.
Victoria (cool temperate; reliable frost inland and in pockets of Melbourne’s fringe)
- Warm‑season: start seeds Aug–Sep under cover; transplant Oct–Nov after frost. Beans/zucchini from Nov once soil is warm.
- Cool‑season: autumn–spring for lettuce, peas, carrots; brassicas late summer to autumn for autumn/winter harvests.
- What to watch: late frosts (even Nov in pockets), hot northerlies—mulch early and water mornings.
Queensland (subtropical to tropical)
- Warm‑season: long window; avoid peak wet and extreme humidity for tomatoes (choose tolerant varieties).
- Cool‑season: prime time for lettuce, brassicas and peas through the milder months.
- What to watch: heavy summer rain, pests thriving in humidity—space plants for airflow.
South Australia (Mediterranean; hot dry summers, cool wet winters)
- Warm‑season: transplant tomatoes Oct–Nov; protect from early heatwaves with mulch and afternoon shade.
- Cool‑season: autumn–spring for leafy greens and roots; winter peas thrive with support.
- What to watch: saline winds in coastal pockets; mulch and windbreaks protect seedlings.
Western Australia (south‑west Mediterranean; north tropical)
- Perth/south‑west: autumn–spring is prime for many greens; start tomatoes late winter under cover for spring planting.
- North WA (tropical): plan around wet/dry; many warm crops in the dry, greens in the coolest months.
- What to watch: sandy soils need organic matter and frequent water; drip and mulch are essential.
Tasmania (cool temperate; short warm season)
- Warm‑season: start seeds indoors Aug–Sep; transplant Nov–Dec; choose early tomato varieties and season extenders.
- Cool‑season: spring–autumn for lettuce, peas, carrots; brassicas shine through cool months.
- What to watch: strong winds and late frosts; use cloches and windbreaks.
Northern Territory (tropical monsoonal)
- Dry season is prime for many vegetables (greens, tomatoes, cucurbits).
- Wet season: focus on tropical crops, perennials and soil‑building; watch for pests and disease in humidity.
- What to watch: intense sun; provide shade cloth and morning watering to reduce stress.
Frost & Heat Strategies
- Use cloches or row covers for a 2–3 week head start.
- Water in the morning; mulch deeply before heatwaves to stabilise root zones.
- Pick bolt‑resistant lettuce and heat‑tolerant varieties during shoulder seasons.
- Raise seedlings under lights where frosts persist; harden off gradually before transplanting.
Microclimates Matter
Urban canyons, coastal breezes and hillsides create warmer, cooler, wetter or drier pockets than published averages. Trust your notes and neighbours as much as charts. A reflective brick wall can bring tomatoes forward by weeks; an exposed valley can hold frost into late spring.
Successions & Staggering
Rather than giant single plantings, sow small batches every two weeks. You’ll even out supply, dodge losses from a bad weather week, and keep beds productive.
- Lettuce, radish, herbs: sow fortnightly for a steady harvest.
- Tomatoes/cucumbers: consider a second planting a month later to extend the season and hedge against early pest outbreaks.
- Carrots/beets: repeat small rows monthly; thin early for straight roots.
Soil Temperature & Germination
Soil warmth, not just air temperature, controls sprouting speed and success. Warm‑season crops prefer 18–24 °C soil; cool‑season seeds germinate happily at 8–16 °C. Use a cheap probe thermometer or touch test—if the soil feels cold even at midday, hold off or start under cover.
Watering & Mulch by Zone
Match irrigation style to your zone. In sandy coastal or inland soils, drip with closer emitters and frequent, shorter runs works well. Clay‑loams handle longer, less frequent runs. Mulch 5–7 cm to stabilise moisture and temperature; coarse mulch in wet winters, finer mulch in dry summers.
What to Plant Now in Australia (Checklist)
Use this high‑level guide, then adjust by state and microclimate:
- Late winter–spring: tomatoes (start indoors in cool zones), peas, lettuce, carrots, brassicas (depending on zone).
- Summer: beans, basil, cucumbers, zucchini; shade‑cloth for greens; water early.
- Autumn: second wave of lettuce, spinach, carrots; start brassicas for winter crops.
- Winter (mild zones): peas, broad beans, hardy greens; protect from frost inland.
FAQs
How do I find my last frost date?
Ask local nurseries and experienced neighbours, and note your own earliest and latest frosts for two seasons. A conservative estimate is better for tomatoes and basil; use cloches if you want an earlier start.
Can I grow year‑round in the subtropics and tropics?
Yes, but swap crops with the wet/dry rhythm. Grow heat‑tolerant or humidity‑tolerant varieties in the wet; grow cool‑season greens during the milder months.
Is a state‑wide date reliable?
Treat state dates as a sketch. Coastal NSW and the tablelands differ by weeks; inner‑city courtyards can run warmer than exposed fringes.
What’s the best time to plant vegetables if I only have weekends?
Batch your work: sow small trays fortnightly, transplant on the next free weekend, and mulch immediately. Use timers for irrigation to cover busy weeks.
Internal Links
Planner: Build Your Local Calendar in 30 Minutes
- Write your suburb and altitude; note if you’re coastal, valley, or hill‑top.
- List three neighbours’ tips or nursery advice on frost and summer heat.
- Pick 6–8 crops you actually eat weekly.
- For each crop, copy the zone window from this guide, then nudge earlier/later by your microclimate notes.
- Add two succession dates for fast crops (lettuce, radish) and one backup sowing for tomatoes/cucumbers.
- Set a reminder to review after the first heatwave or frost—update runtimes and shade plans.
This quick exercise turns a generic chart into a personalised plan, saving wasted sowings and stressed transplants.
